Tucked away in the northernmost corner of Tuscany, the Lunigiana region offers a refreshing escape from the crowded tourist hubs of Florence and Pisa. Known as the “Land of a Hundred Castles,” this area is defined by its rugged Apennine landscapes, ancient stone villages, and deep-rooted culinary traditions. Finding the best towns to visit in Lunigiana allows travelers to experience an authentic side of Italy where time seems to have slowed down centuries ago.
Whether you are a history buff drawn to medieval architecture, an outdoor enthusiast looking for mountain trails, or a foodie seeking traditional chestnut-based dishes, Lunigiana has something unique to offer. Each village tells a story of the Malaspina family, the ancient Stele Statues, and the strategic importance of the Magra Valley. In this guide, we will explore the essential stops that should be on every traveler’s itinerary when visiting this enchanting borderland.
Pontremoli: The Gateway to Lunigiana
Pontremoli is widely considered the cultural capital of the region and is undoubtedly one of the best towns to visit in Lunigiana. Located at the confluence of the Magra and Verde rivers, this town served as a vital stop along the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage route connecting Canterbury to Rome. Its name, meaning “trembling bridge,” hints at the many historic stone crossings that still define the town’s landscape today.
The centerpiece of Pontremoli is the Piagnaro Castle, which looms over the medieval center. Inside the castle, visitors can find the Museum of Stele Statues, which houses prehistoric sandstone sculptures that are unique to this region. These mysterious figures represent the earliest inhabitants of the valley and provide a fascinating glimpse into the area’s ancient past. Walking through the narrow alleys of the old town, you will encounter elegant Baroque palaces and the impressive Cathedral of Santa Maria del Popolo.
Culinary Delights in Pontremoli
No visit to Pontremoli is complete without trying the local delicacies. The town is famous for Testaroli, a pancake-like pasta cooked in cast-iron crocks and typically served with pesto. Additionally, the Amor is a local custard-filled wafer treat that has become a staple of the town’s historic pastry shops. Sampling these flavors is a key part of the experience when exploring the best towns to visit in Lunigiana.
Fivizzano: The Florence of Lunigiana
Often referred to as the “Florence of Lunigiana” due to its historical ties to the Medici family, Fivizzano is a town of elegance and culture. It was one of the first towns in Italy to have a printing press, and its central square, Piazza Medicea, is one of the most beautiful in the region. The square features a grand fountain commissioned by Cosimo III de’ Medici, surrounded by noble palaces and the Church of San Giovanni e Paolo.
Fivizzano is also an excellent base for those who love nature. It sits on the edge of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennine National Park, offering numerous hiking and cycling trails. The town hosts the annual “Disfida degli Arcieri di Terra e di Corte,” a medieval archery competition that brings the town’s history to life with vibrant costumes and pageantry. Its blend of high culture and natural beauty makes it a top contender among the best towns to visit in Lunigiana.
Aulla and the Fortress of Brunella
Aulla serves as a modern hub for the region, but it retains deep historical significance. The town was heavily damaged during World War II, yet it remains home to the imposing Fortezza della Brunella. This 16th-century fortress is a masterpiece of military architecture and now houses the Museum of Natural History of Lunigiana. The fortress offers panoramic views of the surrounding valley, making it a perfect spot for photography.
Nearby, the Abbey of San Caprasio is a must-visit for those interested in the Via Francigena. Recent excavations have uncovered the tomb of the saint and various artifacts that highlight Aulla’s role as a major pilgrimage stop. While more modern than its neighbors, Aulla’s strategic location and historical sites ensure its place on the list of best towns to visit in Lunigiana.
Bagnone: A Riverside Fairytale
Bagnone is perhaps the most picturesque village in the entire region. Built on a steep hillside overlooking a rushing mountain stream, the town is a maze of stone arches, narrow stairways, and hidden courtyards. The sound of running water follows you as you explore the lower village, which is connected to the upper castle district by a series of ancient bridges.
The upper part of Bagnone is dominated by a circular tower, the last remnant of its medieval castle. The town is also famous for its production of high-quality onions, celebrated annually at local festivals. For travelers looking for a romantic and quiet atmosphere, Bagnone is frequently cited as one of the best towns to visit in Lunigiana for its sheer aesthetic charm and tranquil environment.
Filattiera and the Romanesque Heritage
If you are interested in Romanesque architecture, Filattiera is an essential stop. The town is home to the Pieve di San Stefano a Sorano, a stunning 11th-century church built with river stones. This church is a symbol of the spiritual history of the Magra Valley and sits in a peaceful meadow just outside the main village center.
The village itself is divided into an upper and lower section. The upper medieval core features the Malaspina Castle and a series of well-preserved stone gates. Filattiera offers a more rugged and authentic feel than some of the larger towns, providing a true sense of what life was like in rural Tuscany centuries ago. It is a highlight for anyone researching the best towns to visit in Lunigiana with a focus on religious history.
Fosdinovo: The Castle in the Clouds
Perched high on a ridge overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, Fosdinovo offers some of the most spectacular views in the region. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the coast of Cinque Terre and even Corsica. The town is dominated by the Malaspina Castle of Fosdinovo, which is one of the best-preserved and most impressive fortresses in Italy.
The castle is still owned by the Malaspina family and is open for guided tours. It is shrouded in legends, including the famous story of the “Ghost of Bianca Maria Aloisia,” a young noblewoman who was allegedly walled alive inside the fortress. The combination of haunting history, incredible architecture, and coastal vistas makes Fosdinovo a mandatory stop when touring the best towns to visit in Lunigiana.
Why Visit Fosdinovo?
- The Castle: Explore the frescoes, dungeons, and torture chambers of a living medieval fortress.
- The Views: Enjoy unparalleled vistas of the Mediterranean and the Apuan Alps.
- The Atmosphere: Experience the cool mountain air and quiet streets of a high-altitude village.
Mulazzo: The Home of Dante Alighieri
Mulazzo holds a special place in Italian literary history, as it is where the famous poet Dante Alighieri spent part of his exile. The town honors this connection with the Dante Center and various monuments dedicated to the author of the Divine Comedy. Like many other towns in the area, Mulazzo features a prominent Malaspina tower and a series of arched walkways that characterize the local architecture.
The town is also known for its annual book fair, Bancarel’Vino, which combines the local literary tradition with a celebration of regional wines. Visiting Mulazzo provides a wonderful mix of intellectual history and sensory pleasure, solidifying its reputation as one of the best towns to visit in Lunigiana for those who appreciate the arts.
Conclusion: Plan Your Lunigiana Adventure
The best towns to visit in Lunigiana offer a unique alternative to the standard Tuscan itinerary. From the prehistoric mysteries of Pontremoli to the coastal views of Fosdinovo, this region provides a diverse range of experiences for every type of traveler. By visiting these historic villages, you are not just seeing sights; you are stepping into a living museum of Italian history, culture, and gastronomy.
Ready to discover the magic of northern Tuscany for yourself? Start planning your trip today by mapping out a route through these incredible towns. Whether you stay for a weekend or a month, the hospitality and beauty of Lunigiana will leave a lasting impression on your soul. Don’t wait—explore the hidden heart of Italy and find your own favorite corner of this remarkable region.